Wednesday 24 September 2014

South Tirol, Italy


24 September: South Tirol/Trentino, Italy


A tumultuous history lies behind this area located between Austria and Italy, but what is unquestionable is the beauty of the area. Today a work outing was planned for staff from the Innsbruck Medical University Behavioural Psychology Dept. The goal, about 2.5-3 hours walk away on Trail No. 8 was the Tribulaunhuette (Alpine hut) at 2368m.     


Rather than drive north to Innsbruck and then back south toward Italy, I drove independently from the group along the Brenner Autobahn A 13 (Brenner Pass) to the anticipated meeting point about 40km away outside the small village of St Anton some 9km from Gossensass (Colle Isarco)After the usual delays which are only to be expected for a group of this size, we commenced the walk at about 9.30am (instead of the advertised 9am). First over easy undulating terrain, the trail soon turned to fairly steep rocky slopes. For a general staff day out, I thought it was perhaps a little much to expect the group to stay together as one, and indeed, the group soon split into sub-groups of 4-5 and even 1’s and 2’s. The weather, which started out kind, kept its promise, though as we got to around 1800m, the mist had by then descended low and turned quite cool.

Several water drink stops later we came to an open, misty, somewhat mystical area where snow could be seen in small blotches here and there. Here Iris (a friend) and I met a lady who had already been to the hut, was on her way down, but after meeting us decided to turn around and go back up again!! Shortly in to the conversation with her, I found myself defending the need for there to be a balance between the human encroachment associated with tourism and the need to preserve nature.
I think we soon differed in our views on several points and she raced on ahead of us, perhaps to warn others in the Alpine hut that a Greenie from Australia was making his way up the trail ;-).   We arrived some 15 minutes later and quickly donned dry warm clothing and made our way to a warm room inside the hut for a hot drink and vegetable soup (for me) followed by cake, more cake and yes, more cake with coffees and teas to wash it all down in-between.

It was by all accounts a fine meal shared with a lovely group of people.

Some two restful hours later, all formerly undersigned, we commenced our way back down again along the same route. There was talk of the return walk taking somewhere between 40 minutes and 2.5 hours. Hmmmmm, ambitiou! We took 2 hours at what I must say was a fair pace. I personally found the return downhill hard if not harder on the legs. 

Nonetheless, with good company, great conversation and a few water stops, we made it back to the car park, everyone jubilant with what they had achieved on the walk. It was indeed, all told, a great day out, even though perhaps a somewhat unusual way for a large group of colleagues to spend a work day together. There was little chance for any large group conversation on the walk, and certainly on the way up, I think most people preferred to keep their breath for the trek ahead of them rather than engage in social chatter. Nonetheless, conversation could be heard which presumably emanated from the fit walkers among the group. Definitely, the day will be talked about for some time to come.

Monday 15 September 2014

Blaserhuette 2176m

14 September 2014

Oh the excitement of a morning without rain is just too much!! We had to get out to a new trail in the Wipptal (other side of the mountain range from where I live in Medraz). One of the most promising trails (Trail 523) is up to the Blaserhuette (Blaser Hut) at 2176m from the village of Trins near St Anton (both well-known ski resorts). The downhill run on the other side from the Blaserhuette (Trail 524) is also spectacular so I'm told. 

The GT and 14 yr old VW Passat in Trins

So having parked up in Trins in a designated parking lot the weather still looks clear though a little cold -  The GT and I are ready for the off. A gated-fence marks the start of the trail and a sign indicates that both Trail 523 and 524 are open for cyclists as too is the adjoining 577 to the Padasterjochhaus at 2400m (Note to self: I want to do this run perhaps next week. I'll need to bring some food, an extra jacket and leggings in the event of snow and start a little earlier).

The description of the 523 reads:

Long but not overly steep ascents (Ha - that's a matter of opinion!!!) leading over rough gravel forest trails at first, but then becoming smoother. The trail passes through forests and meadows letting you enjoy the botanical delights along the way. Gentian and Edelweiss line the route. Magnificant views appear over the mountain ridges with the goal being the Blaser Alpine Hut at 2176m.


Misty mountain
Just a little side note here, about 2.5km from the top on a particularly steep misty section I'm passed by a blond lady on an eBike. She flies past me as if I'm stood still (perhaps I was!!!). Observation: These eBikes are a great invention to keep people active, but they can be bloody annoying too. Ego still in tact I pedal after this mysterious electric lady without a hope in h**l of catching her, or even setting eyes on this eBike again. However, I am incentivized to lift my own pace. Within a couple of corners she is no longer visible having disappeared in to the distance. Perhaps she never existed and I was just hallucinating!!! 



Approach to Blaserhuette
Anyway, a steady pace and some steeper sections as well as blue skies see the arrival of the welcome Blaser Alpine Hut - A great place for some hot Kaspressknoedel Suppe (breaded pressed cheese and onion soup) as well as conversation with a couple sitting at the table next to me. It turns out that he's a mountain biker too, but he's not riding this weekend choosing rather to hike with his wife in the mountains. 


Blaserhuette (Alpine lodge) 2176m
Could anyone look more relaxed?
 Side note, she like everyone you meet here has been skiing since she was 4 yrs old and is looking forward to the downhill season, which if you ask me, won't be far off!! He tells me that the Trail 524 is a great ride over the other side of the mountain and that I should enjoy some stunning views of the valley on the way down. He's right of course, but then its all stunning, hardly varying in degrees of stunningness, one view from the next. 
I'm suddenly offered an opportunity to take it all in at a halt when a clackety clackety sound can be heard coming from the rear brake. Just a small tip about brakes from an experienced Tirolean mountain biker - they're quite important when descending a mountain!!! OK, so the offending bit is the metal shoe in which the pad sits, and it has been somehow been sheered off and is now sticking in the rotor - not good for the brake and definitely not good for the rotor! So, I bend it back using my trusty bike tools and continue the descent a little less ambitiously with front brake only ;-) Another note: I'm also getting used to descending in and out of corners with left and right legs sticking out enabling me to pull tighter turns. 

Descending with front brake only!
I've seen them do this on TV and even if it doesn't make much difference at my slow pace, it probably looks as though I know what I'm doing - which is important too isn't it!! So, we make it back down to the car without any further dramas rounding off a great late morning early afternoon ride up to the Blaserhuette. Another tick on the trail map ;-)


Saturday 13 September 2014

Starkenburger Huette or not - That's the question!!

13 September 2014

The rain continues to be a constant each day, but I've now accepted that a sunny summer experience in Austria is not to be. Well, not this year any way. With now 4 weeks to go until my return to Australia, I continue to venture out mostly locally and sometimes beyond to find new trails. Invariably there's always something to surprise me, as indeed there was today when within 3 km of the house I encountered a sliding mud wall of about 300m length in front of me. The Garmin reads 44.5% gradient at the steepest point!! Needless to say, I couldn't cycle up it, in fact, given the falling rain, I really needed crampons on my shoes to prevent me sliding back further than I was able to climb on foot! Nonetheless, eventually we made it (GT and I) and found some very nice asphalt as well as heavier rain and descending mist waiting for us at the top of this 'walking' section. Coincidentally, many of the trails are marked with 'Schiebe' (push!) sections. 


These are found both on the uphill as well as downhill sections. Mostly they are intended as a suggestion, but sometimes too, I think they take on a stronger kind of 'command' voice. A sort of 'push now or you're coming off'!! Anyway, at the top of this 'push' section today, GT and I continued to head higher in altitude on the black difficulty level mountain bike trail (# 599 in the Tirol MTB Trail Guide) in the direction of Starkenburger Huette. The Starkenburger is the highest mountain bike trail in the Stubai peaking at 2240m (currently in snow). I guess in fact that there must be quite a bit of snow because already at 1400m the trail was blocked and a farmer told me I couldn't pass and would have to go back to Fulpmes and round the other way if I wanted to get to the Starkenburger. Hmmmmm, sounds inviting, but no thank you!!


I'd noticed on the way up a sign heading through a narrow forest trail to Verghoer, which I know from some of my early morning runs, and so rather than head back down the asphalt - but fast - road, we took the narrow forest trail.  This was a delight, presenting me with opportunities to carry GT on my shoulders, slide on mud, pull on trees to hoist me up steep banks and enjoy some potentially spectacular views (on a clear day!!). From Verghoer the route descends over a familiar, winding, fast pebble trail parallel to the Schlik cable car run and on in to Fulpmes where I decided to give the GT a clean. After all this, the Garmin was still only recording about 12-13km!!! Another lazy morning in the saddle ;-)




Tuesday 19 August 2014

Der Stille Berg (The Silent Mountain)

15th August 2014

This is a short post but one that I think worth sharing. Last Friday I went to the open air cinema in Innsbruck with a friend and we sat through the pouring rain under approximately 75% protection from our umbrellas watching Der Stille Berg (The Silent Mountain). 




Der Stille Berg (trailer link) is set in South Tirol during the 1st World War, and though it focuses on a love relationship between a young Austrian and an Italian girl, it does a beautiful job of simultaneously highlighting the futility and community wrenching truth of war. It's not a film that one would describe as 'nice' per se, but, in that it invites and impels the viewer to contemplate the current world situation through the eyes of history - it is excellent. It's in the German (Tirolean dialect) and Italian (maybe also Tirolean dialect) languages, but perhaps if you don't possess these, there is a sub-titled version available somewhere. Whatever - Go see it!

Monday 4 August 2014

Fulpmes, Nr Innsbruck, Austria

4 August 2014


Fulpmes and Medraz

Yes I know, its been a long time since I wrote my last post. Much has happened in that time. Yes, the Tour de France is over and the Commonwealth Games are still running, but I have to say that I've been so busy since my arrival here in my little village of Medraz on the 13th July that I've barely noticed the weeks fly.  





So, where is Medraz you ask? Well, its about 20km South of Innsbruck in the Stubaital region of the Tirol and it's closest village just 2km away is the all year round resort village of Fulmes. 




 

This area here would be described geographically as Middle Tirol. Its not quite the South and its not quite the North. It's Stubaital and where Tal means valley, the Stubai runs along the Roetz river 40km to the Stubai glacier at its southern point. 




Pinnistal Alm


 Outside of work, time here has predominantly been spent in the saddle exploring the area which you can see through some of these photos. For those perhaps interested in both winter as well as summer, you can find a good overview in the regional tourist pages at: www.stubai.at/en


 
 
This is without a doubt a mountain bikers paradise and all are well catered for with detailed maps, well-signposted trails and plenty of refreshment stops to replenish the legs and the stomach!

There are trails in the area for all, but be warned, they all go up, and I mean up. In fact, some sections are so steep - 49.8% gradient - that to cycle up them is an impossibility - for me anyway. 

 
In fact, I struggle keeping the front wheel to the ground when the gradient on any trail and surface exceeds about 25%. Talking of gradients, I think I'll be putting up a video post here soon of me trying to tackle a plus 40% gradient and rolling off to the side (well, its better than going arse backwards I suppose)! 



This way to the Galt-cafe!!
That said, whether cycling, pushing or even carrying the bike, every trail has its own beauty, be it rough rock, Alpine forest or rolling meadows from which emerge the constant tinkling of cow bells creating a sort of 'sound of music' quality to each ride and providing a meditative musical accompaniment to help riders take the mind off the severity of the ride.  



Maria Waldrast Monastery

The scenery from the high point of each trail is literally breathtaking. Another particular high point (pardon the pun) was the Alpine flower trail reached by cable car from Fulpmes (Schlick 2000). Taking a walk at 1700m high above Fulpmes and experiencing life in bloom in the Alpine meadows of Tirol was truly awe-inspiring.


Maria Waldrast Church



While I've been on many rides, thus far I've especially enjoyed the red trail ride (middle difficulty level) to the Maria Waldrast monastery (Servite order founded in 1233) located at 1638m above sea level making it also one of the highest monasteries in Europe.  This takes the rider to the highest place of pilgrimage in Europe. 





With its stunning location, healing waters and beautiful church, it is easy to understand why for centuries it has been a popular pilgrimage stopping point. The monastery can be reached by car from the Metrai side of the valley or on foot or by bike (that's me) from the other.


To the wolfs den
The coming weeks will hopefully reveal a more settled drier weather providing exactly the sort of conditions that will be conducive to getting out and about even more so in the remaining time I have here. And for those interested, yes, I still have a trip lined up to the Wolf Science Centre in Ernstbrunn - That will take place toward the latter part of my stay. OK, until next time....Pfiat'eich!










Friday 11 July 2014

Harrogate - The Happiest Town in the UK

11 July 2014


Farrah's of Harrogate


Quoting uncharacteristically from Wiki - "Harogate is consistently voted as one of the best places to live in the UK and in 2013 a poll by Rightmove of 40,000 people found that Harrogate was the happiest place to live in the United Kingdom :-)





Cheltenhan Parade





What's more, in 2013, beating off rivals including Paris, Rome and Vienna, Harrogate was declared to be the third most romantic destination in the world. With its many colourful restful gardens, parks, cobbled streets and exquisite restaurants, cafes and music this comes as no surprise.






Betty's Cafe at the top of Montpellier Parade

So there you have it, not only has Harrogate and Yorkshire in general done the UK proud with the very successful hosting of the opening stages of the Tour de France (see other blog), but whether Tour or no Tour, there's always lots on offer for everyone.










I'm here of course primarily to visit my parents who live here. Of course I've been making the most of the opportunity and two wheels to explore a little of the area as well as do some training in preparation for the Tirolean mountains that await me in a couple of weeks.






 
The following photos taken by me don't of course do the area any justice. So, you'll just have to come here and check it out for yourself. In the meantime, you are invited to enjoy a quick blog tour around the area............



 




Harrogate has something to offer everyone, from magical gardens, arts, crafts and music entertainment, iconic landmarks such as Betty's cafe, globally famous for its teas & coffees and baked delights, Farrah's confectionary, historical architecture and lush rolling green countryside for cyclist and rambler alike. 


 
There's definitely much to see and do in and around Harrogate. No wonder indeed that it has been voted the happiest place to live in the UK!

Sunday 6 July 2014

Le Tour de Yorkshire (formerly known as The Tour de France)


6th July 2014: Harrogate, North Yorkshire
 
Me and my brother fly the flag on Stage 1
Tour de Yorkshire (formerly known as the Tour de France)

I think everybody involved in Le Tour this year has been blown away by the reception that they’ve received from the Yorkshire public, with the weather holding off to provide riders and spectators alike with some blazing sunshine (Press words not mine). The truth be told, it was a comfortable 19C!! 

Stage 1 from Leeds to Harrogate (190.5km) was won by the German sprinter Marcel Kittel from the Giant Shimano Team after a long and brave early break away by Nicolas Edet (Team Cofidis), Benoit Jarrier (Team Bretagne) and the 42 year old powerhouse of pro cycling, Jens Voigt (Trek) was pulled back after over 140kms. 
 
Jens Voigt, Benoit Jarrier and Nicolas Edet
The speed of the peleton was then kept high enough to assure the tens of thousands who had gathered around the finish line in Harrogate a thrilling sprint finish. They weren’t disappointed, although sadly, it wasn’t to be the finish the British had hoped for.

Indeed, the final position standings at the end of the stage don’t tell of the dramatic crash involving Mark Cavendish (Team Sky), Simon Gerrans (Team Orica-Greenedge) and Bryan Coquard (Team Europcar) just a few hundred metres from the finish line which left Cavendish out of the Tour with a dislocated shoulder, and Gerrans and Coquard lining up for Stage 2 with undoubtedly some very painful bruising.

Stage 2 from York to Sheffield (201km) was perhaps for many riders a surprisingly tough one, and one which would rival some of the non-mountainous stages that France can offer.   

Stage 2 Peleton, Nr Blubberhouses
It was certainly a stage that was tough enough to split the field up with Stage 1 yellow jersey winner Marcel Kittel (Team Giant Shimano) finishing some 20 minutes down on the eventual Stage 2 winner, and newly crowned Italian road champion Vencenzo Nibali (Astana Team) who classically stole away with just 1.5 kilometers to go and held off a charging pack on the line.

The race results however fail to tell of the hundreds of thousands who turned out on day, or who had camped out to witness Le Tour, whether arriving by car, on foot or even bike, some perhaps seeing the light of day for the first time after a long period of inactivity!!! The enthusiasm of the Yorkshire public as they lined the roads and streets to cheer their favourites, learning a little more at the same time about the tough sport of cycling was palpable. Indeed, the announcement that 2015 will include a UCI Tour de Yorkshire road race will surprise few in Yorkshire.

Having once again been left off the start sheet :-) I’ve been out on my MTB bike scouting the countryside for good vantage points from which to watch the event. In fact, this morning (6 July) I even rode part of Stage 2, and everywhere, even at 7.30am was greeted with an ‘Allez allez’ or a ‘not far to go now mate’ by people seated on the side of the road enjoying Le Tour English style with coffee and crispy bacon sandwiches to await the arrival of the race.

You (Dear Reader) will probably have your own favourite online locations to go to in order to read a more comprehensive and no doubt accurate review of each of the opening two stages, and so I’ll sign off here for now. Vive Le Tour!