Wednesday 24 September 2014

South Tirol, Italy


24 September: South Tirol/Trentino, Italy


A tumultuous history lies behind this area located between Austria and Italy, but what is unquestionable is the beauty of the area. Today a work outing was planned for staff from the Innsbruck Medical University Behavioural Psychology Dept. The goal, about 2.5-3 hours walk away on Trail No. 8 was the Tribulaunhuette (Alpine hut) at 2368m.     


Rather than drive north to Innsbruck and then back south toward Italy, I drove independently from the group along the Brenner Autobahn A 13 (Brenner Pass) to the anticipated meeting point about 40km away outside the small village of St Anton some 9km from Gossensass (Colle Isarco)After the usual delays which are only to be expected for a group of this size, we commenced the walk at about 9.30am (instead of the advertised 9am). First over easy undulating terrain, the trail soon turned to fairly steep rocky slopes. For a general staff day out, I thought it was perhaps a little much to expect the group to stay together as one, and indeed, the group soon split into sub-groups of 4-5 and even 1’s and 2’s. The weather, which started out kind, kept its promise, though as we got to around 1800m, the mist had by then descended low and turned quite cool.

Several water drink stops later we came to an open, misty, somewhat mystical area where snow could be seen in small blotches here and there. Here Iris (a friend) and I met a lady who had already been to the hut, was on her way down, but after meeting us decided to turn around and go back up again!! Shortly in to the conversation with her, I found myself defending the need for there to be a balance between the human encroachment associated with tourism and the need to preserve nature.
I think we soon differed in our views on several points and she raced on ahead of us, perhaps to warn others in the Alpine hut that a Greenie from Australia was making his way up the trail ;-).   We arrived some 15 minutes later and quickly donned dry warm clothing and made our way to a warm room inside the hut for a hot drink and vegetable soup (for me) followed by cake, more cake and yes, more cake with coffees and teas to wash it all down in-between.

It was by all accounts a fine meal shared with a lovely group of people.

Some two restful hours later, all formerly undersigned, we commenced our way back down again along the same route. There was talk of the return walk taking somewhere between 40 minutes and 2.5 hours. Hmmmmm, ambitiou! We took 2 hours at what I must say was a fair pace. I personally found the return downhill hard if not harder on the legs. 

Nonetheless, with good company, great conversation and a few water stops, we made it back to the car park, everyone jubilant with what they had achieved on the walk. It was indeed, all told, a great day out, even though perhaps a somewhat unusual way for a large group of colleagues to spend a work day together. There was little chance for any large group conversation on the walk, and certainly on the way up, I think most people preferred to keep their breath for the trek ahead of them rather than engage in social chatter. Nonetheless, conversation could be heard which presumably emanated from the fit walkers among the group. Definitely, the day will be talked about for some time to come.

Monday 15 September 2014

Blaserhuette 2176m

14 September 2014

Oh the excitement of a morning without rain is just too much!! We had to get out to a new trail in the Wipptal (other side of the mountain range from where I live in Medraz). One of the most promising trails (Trail 523) is up to the Blaserhuette (Blaser Hut) at 2176m from the village of Trins near St Anton (both well-known ski resorts). The downhill run on the other side from the Blaserhuette (Trail 524) is also spectacular so I'm told. 

The GT and 14 yr old VW Passat in Trins

So having parked up in Trins in a designated parking lot the weather still looks clear though a little cold -  The GT and I are ready for the off. A gated-fence marks the start of the trail and a sign indicates that both Trail 523 and 524 are open for cyclists as too is the adjoining 577 to the Padasterjochhaus at 2400m (Note to self: I want to do this run perhaps next week. I'll need to bring some food, an extra jacket and leggings in the event of snow and start a little earlier).

The description of the 523 reads:

Long but not overly steep ascents (Ha - that's a matter of opinion!!!) leading over rough gravel forest trails at first, but then becoming smoother. The trail passes through forests and meadows letting you enjoy the botanical delights along the way. Gentian and Edelweiss line the route. Magnificant views appear over the mountain ridges with the goal being the Blaser Alpine Hut at 2176m.


Misty mountain
Just a little side note here, about 2.5km from the top on a particularly steep misty section I'm passed by a blond lady on an eBike. She flies past me as if I'm stood still (perhaps I was!!!). Observation: These eBikes are a great invention to keep people active, but they can be bloody annoying too. Ego still in tact I pedal after this mysterious electric lady without a hope in h**l of catching her, or even setting eyes on this eBike again. However, I am incentivized to lift my own pace. Within a couple of corners she is no longer visible having disappeared in to the distance. Perhaps she never existed and I was just hallucinating!!! 



Approach to Blaserhuette
Anyway, a steady pace and some steeper sections as well as blue skies see the arrival of the welcome Blaser Alpine Hut - A great place for some hot Kaspressknoedel Suppe (breaded pressed cheese and onion soup) as well as conversation with a couple sitting at the table next to me. It turns out that he's a mountain biker too, but he's not riding this weekend choosing rather to hike with his wife in the mountains. 


Blaserhuette (Alpine lodge) 2176m
Could anyone look more relaxed?
 Side note, she like everyone you meet here has been skiing since she was 4 yrs old and is looking forward to the downhill season, which if you ask me, won't be far off!! He tells me that the Trail 524 is a great ride over the other side of the mountain and that I should enjoy some stunning views of the valley on the way down. He's right of course, but then its all stunning, hardly varying in degrees of stunningness, one view from the next. 
I'm suddenly offered an opportunity to take it all in at a halt when a clackety clackety sound can be heard coming from the rear brake. Just a small tip about brakes from an experienced Tirolean mountain biker - they're quite important when descending a mountain!!! OK, so the offending bit is the metal shoe in which the pad sits, and it has been somehow been sheered off and is now sticking in the rotor - not good for the brake and definitely not good for the rotor! So, I bend it back using my trusty bike tools and continue the descent a little less ambitiously with front brake only ;-) Another note: I'm also getting used to descending in and out of corners with left and right legs sticking out enabling me to pull tighter turns. 

Descending with front brake only!
I've seen them do this on TV and even if it doesn't make much difference at my slow pace, it probably looks as though I know what I'm doing - which is important too isn't it!! So, we make it back down to the car without any further dramas rounding off a great late morning early afternoon ride up to the Blaserhuette. Another tick on the trail map ;-)


Saturday 13 September 2014

Starkenburger Huette or not - That's the question!!

13 September 2014

The rain continues to be a constant each day, but I've now accepted that a sunny summer experience in Austria is not to be. Well, not this year any way. With now 4 weeks to go until my return to Australia, I continue to venture out mostly locally and sometimes beyond to find new trails. Invariably there's always something to surprise me, as indeed there was today when within 3 km of the house I encountered a sliding mud wall of about 300m length in front of me. The Garmin reads 44.5% gradient at the steepest point!! Needless to say, I couldn't cycle up it, in fact, given the falling rain, I really needed crampons on my shoes to prevent me sliding back further than I was able to climb on foot! Nonetheless, eventually we made it (GT and I) and found some very nice asphalt as well as heavier rain and descending mist waiting for us at the top of this 'walking' section. Coincidentally, many of the trails are marked with 'Schiebe' (push!) sections. 


These are found both on the uphill as well as downhill sections. Mostly they are intended as a suggestion, but sometimes too, I think they take on a stronger kind of 'command' voice. A sort of 'push now or you're coming off'!! Anyway, at the top of this 'push' section today, GT and I continued to head higher in altitude on the black difficulty level mountain bike trail (# 599 in the Tirol MTB Trail Guide) in the direction of Starkenburger Huette. The Starkenburger is the highest mountain bike trail in the Stubai peaking at 2240m (currently in snow). I guess in fact that there must be quite a bit of snow because already at 1400m the trail was blocked and a farmer told me I couldn't pass and would have to go back to Fulpmes and round the other way if I wanted to get to the Starkenburger. Hmmmmm, sounds inviting, but no thank you!!


I'd noticed on the way up a sign heading through a narrow forest trail to Verghoer, which I know from some of my early morning runs, and so rather than head back down the asphalt - but fast - road, we took the narrow forest trail.  This was a delight, presenting me with opportunities to carry GT on my shoulders, slide on mud, pull on trees to hoist me up steep banks and enjoy some potentially spectacular views (on a clear day!!). From Verghoer the route descends over a familiar, winding, fast pebble trail parallel to the Schlik cable car run and on in to Fulpmes where I decided to give the GT a clean. After all this, the Garmin was still only recording about 12-13km!!! Another lazy morning in the saddle ;-)