Der Stille Berg (The Silent Mountain)

15th August 2014

This is a short post but one that I think worth sharing. Last Friday I went to the open air cinema in Innsbruck with a friend and we sat through the pouring rain under approximately 75% protection from our umbrellas watching Der Stille Berg (The Silent Mountain). 

Der Stille Berg (trailer link) is set in South Tirol during the 1st World War, and though it focuses on a love relationship between a young Austrian and an Italian girl, it does a beautiful job of simultaneously highlighting the futility and community wrenching truth of war. It's not a film that one would describe as 'nice' per se, but, in that it invites and impels the viewer to contemplate the current world situation through the eyes of history - it is excellent. It's in the German (Tirolean dialect) and Italian (maybe also Tirolean dialect) languages, but perhaps if you don't possess these, there is a sub-titled version available somewhere. Whatever - Go see it!

Fulpmes, Nr Innsbruck, Austria

4 August 2014

Fulpmes and Medraz

Yes I know, its been a long time since I wrote my last post. Much has happened in that time. Yes, the Tour de France is over and the Commonwealth Games are still running, but I have to say that I've been so busy since my arrival here in my little village of Medraz on the 13th July that I've barely noticed the weeks fly.  

So, where is Medraz you ask? Well, its about 20km South of Innsbruck in the Stubaital region of the Tirol and it's closest village just 2km away is the all year round resort village of Fulmes. 




 

This area here would be described geographically as Middle Tirol. Its not quite the South and its not quite the North. It's Stubaital and where Tal means valley, the Stubai runs along the Roetz river 40km to the Stubai glacier at its southern point. 

Pinnistal Alm

 Outside of work, time here has predominantly been spent in the saddle exploring the area which you can see through some of these photos. For those perhaps interested in both winter as well as summer, you can find a good overview in the regional tourist pages at: www.stubai.at/en


 
 
This is without a doubt a mountain bikers paradise and all are well catered for with detailed maps, well-signposted trails and plenty of refreshment stops to replenish the legs and the stomach!

There are trails in the area for all, but be warned, they all go up, and I mean up. In fact, some sections are so steep - 49.8% gradient - that to cycle up them is an impossibility - for me anyway. 

 
In fact, I struggle keeping the front wheel to the ground when the gradient on any trail and surface exceeds about 25%. Talking of gradients, I think I'll be putting up a video post here soon of me trying to tackle a plus 40% gradient and rolling off to the side (well, its better than going arse backwards I suppose)! 

This way to the Galt-cafe!!

That said, whether cycling, pushing or even carrying the bike, every trail has its own beauty, be it rough rock, Alpine forest or rolling meadows from which emerge the constant tinkling of cow bells creating a sort of 'sound of music' quality to each ride and providing a meditative musical accompaniment to help riders take the mind off the severity of the ride.  

Maria Waldrast Monastery

The scenery from the high point of each trail is literally breathtaking. Another particular high point (pardon the pun) was the Alpine flower trail reached by cable car from Fulpmes (Schlick 2000). Taking a walk at 1700m high above Fulpmes and experiencing life in bloom in the Alpine meadows of Tirol was truly awe-inspiring.

Maria Waldrast Church

While I've been on many rides, thus far I've especially enjoyed the red trail ride (middle difficulty level) to the Maria Waldrast monastery (Servite order founded in 1233) located at 1638m above sea level making it also one of the highest monasteries in Europe.  This takes the rider to the highest place of pilgrimage in Europe. 





With its stunning location, healing waters and beautiful church, it is easy to understand why for centuries it has been a popular pilgrimage stopping point. The monastery can be reached by car from the Metrai side of the valley or on foot or by bike (that's me) from the other.

To the wolfs den

The coming weeks will hopefully reveal a more settled drier weather providing exactly the sort of conditions that will be conducive to getting out and about even more so in the remaining time I have here. And for those interested, yes, I still have a trip lined up to the Wolf Science Centre in Ernstbrunn - That will take place toward the latter part of my stay. OK, until next time....Pfiat'eich!

Christiania - Copenhagen's 'Alternative' Residential Zone

31 May 2014

I've heard much about Christiania since I've been in Denmark. Things like: People smoke hash freely on the streets (note the main street is called Pusher Street!), photography is forbidden and certainly not recommended 'at the risk of reprisal from residents', huge 'wild' dogs roam the streets unescorted, it's a melting pot (no pun intended!) for all sorts of weirdos (term used by a friend from Copenhagen), drug-related crime is or was high (maybe a slight pun intended this time!), there was once a grenade attack on the streets and riots used to be a frequent occurrence between residents and the Police, nobody pays rent, it used to be a military camp and when they moved out in 1971 a bunch of activists moved in having climbed over the fences, squatted, and they remain to this day, although it's fair to say that today's population of about 1000 actually own the site having bought it legitimately for 76 million DKR in 2011. All the above and more have led to Christiania becoming one of Denmark's major tourist attractions receiving over half a million visitors each year. Unconventional marketing, but it seems to have worked. Intrigued - Yes, so too was I and so GT and I pedaled down to Christiania this morning. So what did I find?

Aside from three young girls of about 14 years old giggling uncontrollably and loudly not far from the main entrance, presumably from the effects of what they were smoking, I found a busy market place where one (tourists I suppose) could buy Rasta hats, multi-coloured T-shirts, shoes, sweaters, dresses, bangles, bangles and yes, more bangles. In fact, multi-coloured was the order of the day. Christiania is an assault of colour, and when I say colour, I mean BRIGHT colour! So, if you don't like colour don't bother visiting. If you do, be prepared to be bombarded from every angle. The people, their clothes, their buildings, their bikes, their food, their drinks, their tatoos and yes, their bangles all combine to form one massive colour attack. Now don't get me wrong, I'm not anti-colour. But, why to such Kaleidoscopic proportion? What is it an expression of? Is there an underlying fear of non-colour? What would it mean for example if a building wall was not splashed in bright colours or was absent of mantric graffiti (term used here as an expressive art form)?

OK, so, bright colours contribute to happiness. I get that, I am after-all a happiness researcher! But this is more than that. This struck me like a form of materialism, a concept the earlier settlers in Christiania would no doubt have 'activated' against. Come to think of it, I'm sure it wouldn't take too long to hear the usual anti-society rhetoric from today's residents too! Indeed, as you leave Christiania you pass under a sign that reads, 'You are now entering the EU'.  Cute - Yea, maybe!! But for me, the chuckle is short-lived. What's the underlying message being conveyed? How do these residents differ from alternative communities that have sprouted elsewhere in the world, even in my own home country of Australia? 

I'll leave you to read more about the history and the people of Christiania online, if you feel compelled to do so. Personally, I wasn't inspired by what I saw, and I certainly wouldn't hold up their model of existence as an example of natural and sustainable living. Perhaps, they don't intend it to be and the underlying message escapes me!

Balders Plads: A sunny haven

25 May 2014

One of the favorite pastimes for Danes on a beautiful evening like this evening, is to step out of their Apartments to savour the last rays of sunlight at the end of another day. I venture out to Balders Plads, a favorite spot for many, located just around the corner from Nannasgade where I live. I settle for a bench in the direct but slowly waning sun light. Its about 6.45pm. To my right the Baldersgarde Kaffee Bar still has customers. Several are seated outside enjoying the last few hours of the weekend, perhaps plotting between them the following weekend. Closer to my right three young woman are finishing off a bottle of wine, and judging by their mirthful laughter, I imagine that they too are making this day last as long as they can. In front of me slightly to my left, what I imagine to be a father and son, are enjoying a game of table tennis on a permanent outdoor table. I make a mental note that the father is by far the better player of the two, holding back with impressive restraint from smashing the balls that are sent his way time and time again with tempting height. 

Aside from taking in the sun and people around me, I'm reading Strings Attached: One Tough Teacher and the Art of Perfection by Joanne Lipman and Melanie Kupchyhnsky. The book recounts the experiences of the authors (both musicians in their own right) under the bellowing voice and unwavering baton of Mr K (Melanie's father), who over many years coaches countless students and orchestras to perform at their best. Its a story of incredible resilience and tough love, and is a 'must read' for anyone who has ever been inspired by another person, whether in music or otherwise. There are many magic moments in these pages.  

As I'm reading, sun hitting the pages on my left, I squint upward to the right and take in the age of the building (Anno 1901) and note the balconies that serve as airborne gardens stretching out over Balders Plads. Casually the sun fades ever so slowly behind one of the buildings and I imagine it to be close to 7.30pm. A glorious evening gives way to the thought of a workshop tomorrow and I too leave Balders Plads to prepare, like the sun, for another day.

The Copenhagen Mermaid

25 May 2014

After nearly 6 weeks here in Copenhagen, today I cycled down to Langelinje promenade to visit The Little Mermaid, the famous 100 year old unimposing 1.25m bronze Copenhagen icon, whose name was inspired by the Hans Christian Andersen fairy tale by the same name.

Unfortunately, over the years the Little Mermaid has not been immune to acts of vandalism including decapitation, having an arm sawn off and, having paint poured over her. I read that these acts are occasionally carried out in the name of political activism, an action I find difficult to comprehend whatever the issue of concern. Today, all that disturbed her peace were the countless tourists who clambered the rocks to be photographed as close to her as possible.

Soeren Kierkegaard

6 May 2014

Soren Kierkegaard: Born 5th May 1813, 201 years ago today!! Well, not today today, but rather, the day I took this picture.

Kierkegaard family - Norrebro cemetry, Jagvej, KBH

He's somewhat of a figurehead here, and why wouldn't he be, a son of Copenhagen.

People understand me so little that they do not even understand when I complain of being misunderstood.

Søren Kierkegaard, Journals Feb. 1836.

 David F. Swenson wrote the following about Kierkegaard's journals and mode of authorship in 1937:

"Rarely has an authorship had a more inward motivation than Kierkegaard’s. He gives the impression of writing as a bird sings its song, or the flower spreads its fragrance. He permitted intentionally the undermining of his own personal authority and prestige among his contemporaries, in order that his thought might speak for itself. He spent money freely for the privilege of writing and publishing in Denmark its greatest prose literature; and it was a sore difficulty under which he labored in later years, when the springs of productivity flowed as strongly as ever, to be compelled to dam the stream because of increasing financial straits, and to confine himself to his diaries; which did indeed intensify his always vigorous self-reflection. At his death his patrimony was completely exhausted , barely enough remaining to defray the expense of the funeral. It was his father’s financial resources that had underwritten the authorship, and Kierkegaard had on the whole earned no money; he was thus not a “practical” man of “serious” purpose". 

Lectures on the Religious Thought of Soren Kierkegaard, given at Princeton Theological Seminary in March, 1936, on the Stone Foundation by Eduard Geismar, Introduction by David F. Swenson, Augsburg Publishing House.

Kierkegaard died on 11 November 1855 at the early age of 42.